IMMRAMA - THE LISMORE FESTIVAL OF TRAVEL WRITING 2013 - JUNE 13TH - 16TH

 

 

 

The heritage town of Lismore, Co. Waterford was the stunning location for Immrama - The Lismore Festival of Travel Writing.  Lismore Castle, re-built in the gothic style during the mid-nineteenth century, stands majestically on the banks of the river Blackwater.  The castle is a stately home and along with St. Carthage Cathedral evokes an atmosphere of an older time.  Lismore is an ancient, sacred place with almost 1400 years of recorded history.  Immrama is an old Irish word for journey and many people have journeyed to Lismore since the festival’s inception.  Dervla Murphy, a native of Lismore, was the world famous travel writer who inspired the first festival ten years ago.  

VIEW OF LISMORE CASTLE

   
I travelled to Lismore on Saturday to attend talks given by Paul Theroux and Simon Winchester.  Paul Theroux one of America’s foremost travel writers, took to the stage in the Blackwater Community School on Saturday afternoon.  He shared some of his amazing experiences with a capacity audience of over five hundred people.  Paul told us his favourite travel writer is Dervla Murphy hence his wish to visit Lismore and attend Immrama.  He flew to Belfast and wanted to travel to Lismore by train.  Unfortunately the train service to Lismore ceased in 1960s so he travelled to Cork  by train and hired a car.  The first time he heard Dervla's name mentioned in travel circles was in the 1960s when she travelled across Ethiopia on a mule!  Paul travelled to Africa for the first time in 1963.  He arrived in Malawi as a teacher with the Peace Corps.  He later moved to Uganda and then to Singapore. Paul has controversial opinions with regards to Africa.  He believes Africa should be left to the African people and aid agencies should not interfere.  He told how he had argued with Bill Clinton about the state of Uganda.  His life has been threatened a couple of times when he travelled through extremely unstable countries.  Paul spoke of his many adventures with humour, clarity and enthusiasm. 

      PAUL THEROUX   

         

 

 

 

         SIMON WINCHESTER



Simon Winchester took to the stage on Saturday evening.  Simon is a best-selling author, journalist and broadcaster.  He started his career as a geologist in Uganda.  When Simon was 21 he decided geology was not for him so he wrote to travel writer James Morris and asked for advice.  He had been reading James Morris travel books during free time in Uganda.   James Morris advised him to give up geology and get back to England and look for a job in a newspaper and start writing.   He encountered a couple of set-backs but he persevered.  Simon sent his work to James Morris in Wales for analysis and feedback.  James was extremely kind and helped Simon with his work but they never met.  When Simon eventually met James in the early 1970s he got a shock.  James was undergoing a sex change and now James is Jan Morris the Welsh historian, author and travel writer! Through his career in ‘The Guardian’ Simon covered numerous significant events, including Bloody Sunday in Northern Ireland and The Watergate Scandal in Washington. 

 

                                                    ST CARTHAGE'S CATHEDRAL , LISMORE

Saturday morning I attended a presentation given by Dr. Rachel Finnegan in the atmospheric St. Carthage Cathedral.  Her subject was Richard Pococke, Anglican Bishop of Ossory 1756-65.  He is best known for his travel writing and diaries.  He seems to have spent more time travelling than attending to his duties as a churchman and from 1733-41 undertook two grand tours with his cousin. 

TUESDAY KNITTERS 'YARNBOMB' CREATION ON DISPLAY IN LISMORE!

GOTHIC SPLENDOUR OF LISMORE CASTLE

Sunday morning an early Literary Breakfast with Charlie Connolly in the Ballyrafter House Hotel was well attended.  Full Irish breakfasts for everybody!  A full interactive programme of family fun and music was held on Sunday afternoon in the Millennium Park. 

Immrama is a niche festival and Lismore is a unique location.  The two combined made my visit a very pleasant experience.  

Please join me on twitter @ederoiste 

 

 

 

 

LISTOWEL WRITERS WEEK 2013 - 29TH MAY - 2ND JUNE

 

Please join me on twitter @ederoiste

I love to visit Listowel. As I drive across the Cork/Kerry border and meander along the winding roads the stress of everyday life melts away.  When travelling to Listowel I usually leave time for manoeuvre.  Inevitably, I find myself behind a bouncy, rickety old tractor from another era driven by an equally rickety old farmer travelling at 30kph. Arriving in Listowel always feels like the first day of holidays.  There is a relaxed, friendly atmosphere in the town and for Writers’ Week, a gentle buzz.  People scurrying to readings, book launches, workshops, plays and art exhibitions.  

Relaxing in The Square, Listowel with Listowel Castle in view

My journey today is to the 42^nd Listowel Writers' Week 2013.   Listowel is the perfect town for a festival.  Whether it is the big racing festival in September or Writers’ Week in May all activities take place in the vicinity of a large, old market square.  Beautiful St John’s Theatre is the cultural focal point in the centre of the square. An old deconsecrated Protestant Church, it has been converted into a theatre and arts centre  and today I am there today to attend an exhibition opening by artist Michael Mulcahy.    Michael’s expressive paintings are strong in colour, energy and vibrancy.  The artist opened his exhibition with a short theatrical speech that was more a performance. Michael is as colourful as his paintings.

 

 

 

Michael Mulchahy opens his exhibition in St John's Theatre, Listowel during Listowel Writers' Week

 

 

 

 

                                         The Quiet Man, written by north Kerry writer Maurice Walsh, was originally a short story first published in the Saturday Evening Post in 1933.  The story was the basis for the film of the same name.  A 40 minute adaptation of Walsh’s story by Irish-American writer Frank Mahon was performed in St John’s Theatre at lunchtime on Thursday.



Colm Toibin being interviewed by Carlo Gebler in the Listowel Arms hotel Ballroom

Listowel Arms Hotel Ballroom was the venue for the afternoon and evening literary interviews.  First up was Colm Toibin, festival president, who was interviewed by Carlo Gebler (son of Edna O’Brien) on Thursday afternoon.  His most recent book ‘The Testament of Mary’ was performed on Broadway with Fiona Shaw in the title role.  IMPAC winner Colum McCann was next to be interviewed by Catherine Dunne.  His new work 'TransAtlantic' utilises the real-life narratives of Frederick Douglass, Alcock and Brown, and Senator George Mitchell in a daring novelistic feat. Colum did his book signing standing and engaged each person in conversation. Thursday evening a panel of writers discussed ‘Across the Waves: The Experience of Migration in Contemporary Irish Writing’. This was sponsored by The Gathering Ireland 2013. 

                                       Colum McCann signing his latest book 'TransAtlantic'

Emma Donoghue was in the Ballroom on Friday afternoon.  Her latest novel ‘Astray’ is a sequence of fourteen fact-inspired fictions about travels to, in and from North America.  A large crowd gathered on Friday evening for Rebecca Miller.  She is married to Daniel Day Lewis so she had a lot to prove to the inquisitive crowd.  She discussed her work and read from her latest book Jacob’s folly.  She had no problem engaging the crowd with her sense of humour and easy manner.  

 

Rebecca Miller signing copies for her latest book 'Jacob's Folly'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The main event on Saturday evening was a bi-lingual celebration and tribute to the work of Irish poet Maire Mhac an tSaoi.  Maire is the most acclaimed Irish language scholar, poet, writer and academic of modern literature in Irish.  Deeply rooted in the Irish language traditions of the west Kerry Gaeltacht, Maire was a subversive voice in Ireland during the 1940s and 50s.  She is a woman who refused the conventions of her own time to celebrate the full extent of the female experience.  

This is a snippet of a most wonderful festival.   When I had a few hours to spare between events I travelled to Ballybunion beach 10km from Listowel for a long relaxing beach walk.  Again I will reiterate Listowel is a perfect location for a festival.   Get there if you can. 

Beautiful Ballybunion beach 10km from Listowel and Listowel Racecourse below

 

 

 

 

THE BIG SHED - BALLYMALOE FRINGE FESTIVAL 2013

 

Please join me on twitter @ederoiste

 

THE BIG SHED

 

Following my first blog about the main Ballymaloe Literary Festival programme I will now focus on the fringe festival.  It’s an unusual festival when the fringe festival takes place in a big shed.  An informal festival opening party on Friday evening in The Big Shed started the party rolling.  Wildside Kitchen served delicious food until late with inspiration from the four corners of the world.  Ballymaloe Bar showcased a selection of Irish Whiskeys from local Middleton Distillery, craft beer from Irish brewers including Eight Degrees Brewing, White Gypsy, West Kerry Brewing Co., and a selection of Sherries.   Some revellers danced enthusiastically to house band ‘The Gardeners’ while others relaxed and enjoyed the convivial atmosphere.



'Olde Musick & Cokery Books' had an unusual stall selling antiquarian and old illustrated sheet music and old cookery books.

On Saturday morning members of the farmers market set up colourful stalls in The Big Shed. Festival goers ate at rustic wooden tables decorated with fresh flowers.  Freshly cooked, organic food was reasonably priced and The Irish Barista Association provided delicious coffee.  Food was provided by Annie’s Roasts, Gubbeen Charcuterie and Cheeses, Volcano Pizzas and many more.  Kids were entertained in Family Corner where there were storytellers, crafts, cupcake decorating and round and round the garden, a scavenger hunt.  The weather stayed fine for the weekend but live music from the West Cork Ukulele Orchestra brought sunshine to The Big Shed

                                              

               Silvia Iglesias Hilara Spanish Food stall served delicious Empanadas and Croquetas
 

The Gubbeen Charcuterie and Cheeses stall was a firm favourite with a tasting plate for 2euro and a large barbecue platter to feed two or three people for 10euro.  My favourite was a tasty crepe filled with egg, cheese and spinach from Lolo’s Breton Crepes.  Delicious!  A pop up garden with a grow it yourself demonstration by Michael Kelly proved very popular.  In these recessionary times people are interested in becoming self-sufficient. 

Master Cooper from nearby Middleton Distillery, Ger Buckley, drew a large crowd on Saturday to his cooperage display.  This provided a rare opportunity to observe the ancient craft of cooperage.

Throughout the weekend there were wine and sherry tastings and also tastings of Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey from Middleton Distillery.  William O’Callaghan of Longueville House, Mallow, Co. Cork gave a talk and tasting of their award winning Irish Apple Brandy and Cider.  Sunday night was the final night in The Big Shed and it proved to be the liveliest.  Revellers ate, drank and tangoed until the early hours.   And as one reveller observed The Big Shed would be missed when the festival finished.  And so it was.

 Setting up for Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey and Irish Farmhouse cheese tastings.

BALLYMALOE LITERARY FESTIVAL 2013

Ballymaloe Literary Festival 3^rd – 6^th May 2013

 Join me on twitter!  @ederoiste

I approached Ballymaloe Literary Festival programme with a certain curiosity. This was a new festival with a new festival format, food and literature.  I am neither a chef nor a novelist so I decided to book some events influenced my own personal interests and preferences.

                           Darina Allen assists Madhur Jaffery at her cookery demonstration
 

I signed up for Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian cookery demonstration at the Ballymaloe Cookery School on Saturday morning.  It was a delightful.  Madhur is an award winning actress as well as a world authority on Indian cooking.  She was born in Delhi and while she cooked she regaled us with stories of her childhood in India.  I was gradually transported to a land of colour and spice.  Tantalising aromas filled the air.  Spices, exotic fruits and vegetables sizzled.   We were treated to a mouth-watering array of Indian dishes, from whole roasted Masala chicken to salmon cooked in a Kerala style.  Madhur cooked and entertained for three and a half hours with passion and flare.  Not bad for a lady who will be eighty in August!  By  lunchtime we were ravenous and her wonderful creations were devoured in minutes by audience members, including myself!     

 

     

 

                                        Some of Madhur Jaffrey's delicious Indian dishes

 ‘Wine and Words’ in the Carrigaun room was presented by Tom Doorley, wine writer and restaurant critic and John Wilson, wine writer with 'The Irish Times'.   We tasted some excellent wines from Austria, France and Italy.  The two gentlemen entertained us with funny wine related anecdotes and readings.  Tom Doorley read extracts from a wine book written by Corkman Maurice Healy – Ireland’s first wine journalist.  Healy was a barrister and a legendary wit and conversationalist.  He wrote celebrated books on wine in the 1930s.   A very pleasant afternoon.

                                                                 Tom Doorley and John Wilson 

John Bowman chaired a Questions and Answers discussion in the The Grain Store at Ballymaloe on Saturday evening . The expert panel included Darina Allen, John Wilson, Jancis Robinson and Nick Lander. The panellists answered food and wine related questions from an audience comprised of small food producers, farmers and many other interested parties.   It was an informative, lively discussion mainly about the future of Irish food and Ireland’s food industry.
 

                                      John Bowman chairs Questions and Answers session

Madhur Jaffrey was in the Grain Store on Sunday morning for a literary conversation entitled  'Curry Nation'. She discussed our Western love affair with curry.  She explained how curry travelled from East to West with the British Colonisation of India and how we Westerners have changed Indian cuisine to suit our Western taste.  I was surprised to learn there is no such thing as a Chicken Tikka Masala in India!  

                                                                       Darina Allen takes notes at Madhur Jaffrey's talk

 

I am not a culinary expert so I was not familiar with Claudia Roden.   I decided to attend her talk on ‘The Food of Spain’ on Sunday afternoon because I love Spain and Spanish food.  I was glad I did.  Claudia was a revelation. She spoke knowledgeably and gracefully about the history of Spanish food. We travelled from Andalusia to Asturias, Catalonia to Galicia on a culinary magical mystery tour.  Moors, Berbers, Celts, Romans, Visigoths, French and many more have influenced Spanish Cuisine.   Spain has a rich culture and this is reflected in a large variety of Spanish dishes.  Claudia informed us it is an exceptional time to be travelling and eating in Spain today.  Spain is a dynamic country, where everything, especially food, arouses great passion.  Spain has transformed itself into one of the world's effervescent centres of gastronomic creativity.  I am booking flights as I type!

 

 

 

Claudia Roden signs her wonderful cookery book,

 'The Food of Spain'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The grand finale, a panel discussion ‘Fusing Culinary Cultures’  on Monday at the Grain Store proved to be a festival highlight.   The question put to the panel:  ‘Is the fusing of culinary cultures leading to confusion?’.  Matthew Fort, food critic with' The Guardian', chaired the discussion and noted he had ‘never seen a most distinguished panel gathered in one place’.   The panel included Rawley Leigh, Madhur Jaffrey, Darina Allen, Stephanie Alexander, Claudia Roden, and David Thompson. Each panellist was allotted time to give their own unique opinion.  As anticipated each person had a different perspective.  A lively debate ensued! Too many chefs.....  

 

              From left: David Thompson, Rowley Leigh, Madhur Jaffrey, Matthew Fort,
                                Stephanie Alexander, Ben Reade, David Tanis, Claudia Roden


This is just a small sample of the festival highlights.  The festival included top food and wine writers and chefs from around the world.   There were talks and demonstrations on varied topics from Thai street food to the Nordic food revolution, from the art of fermentation to Abracadabra! - Confessions of a kitchen witch.   Participants included Claus Meyer, Ella McSweeney, Skye Gyngell,  Camilla Plum, Rachel Allen, Thomasina Meirs, Stevie Parle, Rory O'Connell and many more.  There was great diversity and choice. There were foragers, fermentations, wine grapes, shellfish and Albarino!   It has been confirmed that the festival was such a success Darina Allen, Rory O’Connell and Ballymaloe will run a festival in May next year.  Looking forward to it already.    This is my first blog.  Hope you enjoyed it!

 

                                                  Madhur Jaffrey and Darina Allen