MIDDLE EASTERN COOKING IN EAST CORK

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                     RORY O'CONNELL PREPARES A MIDDLE EASTERN FEAST  

Interested in Middle Eastern food?  The name to be familiar with is
Ottolenghi or so I was informed on a recent visit to  Ballymaloe Cookery School to attend a Middle Eastern cookery course.   Yotum Ottolenghi is an Israeli-born cookery writer and chef-patron based in London.  Ottolenghi’s style is rooted in, but not confined to his Middle Eastern upbringing.  His particular skill is in marrying the food of his native Israel with a wider range of incredible textures and flavours from Syria, Turkey, Lebanon, Iran and Armenia - but with a western twist.  Born in Jerusalem he moved to London in 1997 to train at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school for six months. He worked in London as a pastry chef for a few years before setting up his first gourmet deli in 2002 aiming to sell the best take away food in London both sweet and savoury.  Three more delis followed and one formal restaurant Nopi opened in 2011. 

 

TWO PLATTERS OF OTTOLENGHI'S ROAST CHICKEN
WITH SAFFRON, HAZELNUTS AND
HONEY  GARNISHED WITH CHOPPED
SPRING ONION

 

My first introduction to an Ottolenghi recipe was by Rory O'Connell on the first day of the course.  Darina Allen and her daughter-in-law Rachel Allen are the public faces of Ballymaloe Cookery School but Darina’s brother Rory is the hidden gem.  He has just published an excellent cookery book 'Master It' and is an inspiring teacher and chef.  Precise and informative he imparts knowledge to students with passion and enthusiasm.  He taught us how to fillet a whole chicken and then demonstrated how to cook Ottolenghi’s roast chicken with saffron, hazelnuts and honey.   I was transported from East Cork to the Middle East as the spices sizzled and exotic aromas filled the air.  Rory prepared dishes from around the Mediterranean, from Moroccan Harira Soup to Hummus Bi Tahina, from radish and broad bean salad with green tahini sauce to roast peppers with chickpeas and fresh goat’s cheese. 

                                                                  BAKLAVA

APRICOTS, ALMONDS AND PISTACHIOS

 

Desserts in the Middle East are extremely sweet.  Rory prepared a Baklava which is a rich sweet pastry made with layers of filo pastry filled with chopped nuts, sweetened with syrup or honey.  It is characteristic of the cuisines of the former Ottomon Empire but is also found in Asia.

Darina Allen and Rachel Allen provided subsequent demonstrations.  Darina prepared a Syrian dessert of apricots, almonds and pistachios in sweet syrup.  It was intensely sweet and Darina advised to serve it with a rich chocolate cake.  A Tunisian orange cake was popular with the students and many of them recreated their own versions in the kitchen during practical work. I cooked mostly savoury dishes including Ottolenghi's roast chicken, lamb Shawarma and Moroccan Harira soup.

              MOROCCAN HARIRA SOUP WITH LAMB, LENTILS AND CHICKPEAS  

 

                                        FRAGRANT SALADS

The exotic dishes included fragrant salads decorated with fresh flowers, dressed with pomegranate and molasses dressing.  Darina produced a cool refreshing mint lemonade and a Lebanese cold cucumber soup. I learned names of many new dishes and ingredients including sumac which consists of crushed red berries from the sumac plant and za'atar which is prepared using ground thyme, oregano, marjoram mixed with toasted sesame seed and salt.

 

KITCHEN GARDEN AND ORCHARD

It was delightful to get outside to the cool kitchen garden and orchard for a break after a morning of frenetic activity in the kitchen.  All the produce grown there is organic and is used by the cookery school.  I visited the small dairy where the cookery school's five Jersey cows are milked each day.   They provide the milk and cheese for the school.  Huge hen houses contained a myriad of hens and chickens producing hundreds of eggs.  The fish for the school is caught in nearby Ballycotton and is fresh and delicious.  All ingredients used by students at the school are totally organic.  

                         CLAUDIA RODEN'S KATAIFI PIE WITH CREAM FILLING

Fun was had on the second day of the course when Darina and Rachel recreated Claudia Roden’s (see previous Ballymaloe Litfest post) tasty dessert recipe Kataifi Pie with a cream filling. Kataifi pastry, an ingredient in this recipe, is spun pastry and needs to be teased and each strand coated in butter.   Darina and Rachel started the teasing process and when Darina tired Sorcha, one of the excellent teaching assistants took over.  It took three of them to get the pastry to the required texture before cooking.  Needless to say I did not try to recreate this dessert in the kitchen.  Two brave men attempted it and succeeded admirably.  It is a delicious dessert but I think I will stick to baking something simpler.  Ballymaloe Cookery School provides courses to suit everybody. From beginners to advanced there is a course to suit all pockets and timetables.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time there and would highly recommend it.  

 

DARINA, RACHEL AND SORCHA TEASING THE KATAIFI PASTRY 

 

 

LABNEH (STRAINED YOGHURT CHEESE) WITH ANCHOVIES

 

EDIBLE FLOWERS FOR SALADS (ABOVE) AND PET DOVES (BELOW)

 

 

ARTICHOKES

STREET PERFORMANCE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 - CORK

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                                             CARNIVAL TIME, PATRICK STREET, CORK

A carnival descended on St. Patrick's Street in Cork on Saturday 21^st and Sunday 22^nd July.  The street was pedestrianized and almost 90,000 people came to town for the final weekend of the Street Performance World Championship 2013 - www.spwc.ie .  There were four main performing areas along the main thoroughfare.  Street performers from all over the world arrived in Cork to entertain the crowds for two days in glorious sunshine.  Mixing fire with freak show, burlesque with beat box, mime with magic this was going to be a bumpy ride.

 CIRQUE NO PROBLEM

 

I was particularly taken by last years winners, a Hungarian acrobatic husband and wife team, Uri and Noa Weiss of Cirque No Problem.  Their act involved a portable trapeze. They have developed their own theatrical style that combines clowning with clever humour and acrobatic techniques with juggling routines.  They commandeered six strong men from the audience to hold the trapeze in place while they performed daring gymnastic feats to an appreciative audience.    The crowd loved them and their finale on the trapeze miming to ‘A Total Eclipse of the Heart’ was hilarious.   

                                                           ZAP CIRCUS

Zap Circus from Australia was similar to Cirque No Problem.  The performance included a couple clowning with humour and acrobatic techniques but instead of a trapeze they performed with fire.  They were not as polished and fluid as Cirque No Problem but they entertained the crowd no less.  Some of the acts weren’t to my taste.  I don’t like watching contortionists. People squeezing themselves through tennis rackets (Alakazam) or deforming their faces with rubber bands (Rubberband Boy) leave me cold.  However, Alakazam the Australian daredevil contortionist proved popular and came a respectable third by squeezing and squashing himself in and out of eye-watering positions.

LORDS OF STRUT

 

Overall winners Lords of Strut boogied, bent and back-flipped their way in spandex pants to the world title.  Lords of Strut members Sean-tastic and Famous Seamus called themselves ‘Ireland’s hardest-working man band’.    Their win was made extra special as the Cork-based act performed their final shows on St Patrick’s Street, where they honed the act in their early days. 
 

                                            BABIES IN BUBBLES ON PATRICK STREET

Families were well catered for.    I spotted harnessed children climbing a wooden contraption and other children having a superb time tumbling inside plastic bubbles in a makeshift water pool outside Brown Thomas.  Squeals could be heard from a tall swirling slide as kids hurtled round and round to the bottom.  The Carousel was a big attraction and the food stalls kept people fed and watered for the weekend.  The event was well organised and it was a great idea to move it from Fitzgerald’s Park where it has been for the past couple of years and bring it right into the heart of the city.  Organisers estimated there were 205,000 people in Dublin’s Merrion Square for the championship's first performances the previous weekend.  Congratulations to all the street performers who entertained over 300,000 people over two weekends in Cork and Dublin. 

                                                ADVENTUROUS CLIMBING CHILDREN
 

                                   MARIE ANTOINETTE CHARMS A PASSER-BY

 

ROTHE HOUSE, KILKENNY

                                                          ROTHE HOUSE

Rothe House is a medieval gem situated in the heart of Kilkenny city.  I visited the house last week as I was doing some research and was advised that Kilkenny Archaeological Society library was housed there.   I had often passed the beautiful exterior and imagined what lay inside.  I had no idea the amazing work the people of Kilkenny had contributed to this wonderful conservation. Rothe House Museum tells the story of business and family life in 17^th century Kilkenny.  John Rothe Fitz Piers was one of a dozen merchants who controlled Kilkenny’s trade and dominated its civic government from late Middle Ages to the 17^th century.  

FIRST FLOOR WHERE ROTHE FAMILY LIVED

                  BEAUTIFULLY RECONSTRUCTED CEILING ON SECOND FLOOR

The site contains three houses separated by small courtyards.  When you enter the first house through arches from Parliament Street you observe where John Rothe carried out his business as a silk merchant.  John Rothe married Rose Archer, the daughter of another influential Kilkenny family, and had twelve children with her.  Their eldest son Peter was born in 1590 followed by eight daughters and three sons. The family lived in rooms upstairs over the business and these rooms are authentically reconstructed and give an idea how the family lived in luxury compared to ordinary people of Kilkenny.  John Rothe was mayor of Kilkenny in 1613 and when he died in 1620 his son Peter inherited the bulk of his estate.  Unfortunately, when Cromwell arrived in Kilkenny in 1649 Peter was banished to Connaught and his property confiscated.

Crossing from the first floor of the first house on a reconstructed medieval wooden platform you enter the first floor of the second house.  This house was completed in 1604 and included additional family living space.  This building now houses an exhibition. Crossing a second small courtyard you enter the third house which was completed in 1610 and included a large kitchen on the ground floor with a large hearth and bake oven as well as additional rooms on the first and second floors.  The small library is situated upstairs in this building and I spent a pleasant couple of hours leafing through ancient dusty manuscripts.   The library is open to the public and is good value to join at €30 per annum.   

                                HERB AND VEGETABLE GARDEN ROTHE HOUSE

Behind the third house were gardens which contained an orchard, herb and vegetable gardens, a pigeon house, a well, and a summer house at the far end.  Today the gardens are planted with vegetables, herbs and orchards that would have been used by the family four hundred years ago.  As it was a beautiful day I sat in the summer sunshine and soaked up the atmosphere.  I felt like I was on a set of a Shakespearean play and expected Rosalind and Orlando to appear any minute from the lower garden.  The site must have been a very pleasant family home for a dozen children.   There are myriads of nooks and crannies for children to play hide and seek.  Rothe House is worth a visit when in Kilkenny as it is the only medieval townhouse and gardens in Ireland open to the public. 
 


MEDIEVAL HERBS SUCH AS HYSSOP AND BORAGE PLANTED IN THE GARDEN

            A LARGE HEARTH WAS ADDED TO THE THIRD HOUSE IN 1610


ANCIENT WELL IN ONE OF THE COURTYARDS

 

MONDAY IN BANTRY, CO.CORK

                                                             BANTRY HOUSE

I travelled to Bantry to attend a talk at West Cork Literary Festival and arrived there in the early afternoon of Monday, 8th of July.  The talk I was to attend was to be given by actress Carol Drinkwater at 6.30pm so I had a couple of hours to kill.  When I reach a town I am not familiar with I usually drive around to find landmarks such as a Tourist Office, Festival Office, tourist attractions etc.  I found driving around the town of Bantry confusing to say the least as it is a one way system and no matter what route I took I kept arriving back to the same spot!  Driving through one of the narrow streets on one of my circular journeys I spotted a modern building on a hill with a huge flag on the side wall with the words ‘Festival Information’ emblazoned across it.  Bingo!  I drove up the steep hill past a stationary mill wheel standing like an archaic sculpture fixed to the ground.  It was a searingly hot day.  I parked in the shade under a wide tree opposite the convent at the top of the hill and walked back to the modern building to discover it was Bantry Library.  I was surprised to find a notice on the door ‘Closed on Monday’.  Confusion again as this was the building that had ‘Festival Information’ advertised on it.  A little board outside with photographs of Mondays festival participants was the only information on offer. A middle-aged American couple had wheezed their way up the hill to the library having also seen the information notice. The lady had breathing problems and the exertion had taken its toll.  They plonked on a wooden seat outside the library and asked me what they should do. We exchanged a few words and I advised them there was a Tourist Office by the Waterfront.

                        VIEW OF BANTRY BAY FROM BANTRY HOUSE  AND GARDEN

I continued my journey on foot to the Tourist Office. I had noticed the imposing building earlier.  When I arrived at the large old stone building there were a number of bronzed tourists in cycling outfits standing outside.   Bicycles laden with travelling gear leaned against the grey stone wall.  The cyclists were reading a notice of opening times on the Tourist Office door and again the familiar 'Closed on Monday'.  My heart sank.  The area around the glistening waterfront was teaming with tourists and visitors attending the literary festival.  This was a perfect opportunity to sell the local area and amenities to visitors.   

I had noticed a large sign on the gates of the magnificent Bantry House advertising hot food all day.  I was hoping to visit the house and gardens and maybe partake in some refreshments.   It was getting extremely hot as it was mid-afternoon and  I needed to retreat from the basking sun quickly as I could feel my pale skin frying.  I decided I would spend an hour or two investigating the old house and shady gardens.   I left the Tourist Office and walked along the quay by the shimmering water to the imposing gates of Bantry House.  As I drove past earlier I had been too busy reading the large sign near the roadway advertising food to notice the gates were shut.  Also I had not noticed a smaller sign on the closed gates. ‘Gardens and House closed to the public on Mondays’.  Bantry!  It is July.  Tourists visit Bantry on Mondays in July.  They need information and guidance.  I know because I have met them struggling up and down hilly, narrow streets, standing outside the Tourist Office looking intently at maps and signs that make no sense.  I felt sorry for their misfortune asking me for information.  All they got was a blank look and excuses in return. I couldn't recommend bed and breakfasts or scenic walks or decent restaurants. 

By this time my face was pink with heat and exasperation.  I turned on my heels and limped back to town.  My refuge was the cool Carvery Bar at The Bantry Bay Hotel where I gulped a long cold drink and devoured a delicious Black Pudding salad.  The Black Pudding was from award winning  McCarthy's of Kanturk  so it was bound to be good.  

My photographs of Bantry House and Gardens were taken from outside the low perimeter wall! 

 

 

All was not lost as Carol Drinkwater's presentation at the The Maritme Hotel was worth the wait.  Carol is best known for her award-winning portrayal of Helen Herriot in the television adaptation of the James Herriot books, 'All Creatures Great and Small’.   She married a French man and now lives on an olive farm in Provence.  She is currently working on a series of documentary films inspired by her books, ‘The Olive Route’ and ‘The Olive Tree’.  She discussed her travels around the Mediterranean and the highlight of her trip was her discovery of a 6,000 year old olive tree in Lebanon.  

When I was leaving Bantry I asked the lady in reception at the Maritime Hotel which road I should take to get back to Cork. The only road signs I could see were for Killarney and Skibbereen.   She advised me to take the road for Skibbereen.  'But I don't want to go to Skibbereen' I emphasised.  'Take the road to Skibbereen' she reiterated 'but don't turn off for Skibbereen keep going straight for Cork'. And I did.  I plan to visit Bantry again but next time I will visit on a Tuesday.  

ROS TAPESTRY, NEW ROSS, WEXFORD

EX VOTO TINTERN ABBEY: WILLIAM MARSHAL'S STORMY CROSSING TO IRELAND

On my recent trip to New Ross I visited the Ros Tapestry.   Including  15 large embroidered panels the Ros Tapestry is a major community arts and history project depicting the events around the Anglo-Norman arrival in the South East of Ireland specifically the founding of New Ross, Co Wexford in 1207 by William Marshal, a famous Knights Templar, and his wife, heiress Isabel de Clare.   By the end of the 13^th century New Ross had become one of the ten highest grossing ports in terms of customs in Ireland and Britain, exporting grain, wool, cattle hides and timber.  During this period it was heavily integrated into the wider European economy with Italian bankers playing a large role in setting up the town and establishing it as an important international trade centre.   

                                  THE SHEAF OF CORN - THE DISTAFF DESCENT

Each tapestry is approx. 6ft x 5ft and they are on permanent display in Priory Court, New Ross.   The epic Anglo-Norman tale has been brought to life in the Ros Tapestry through detailed designs by artist Ann Griffin-Bernstorff who researched the historic events, customs, dress and folklore that provide the substance for the series of fifteen panels.  Her daughter Alexis (a textile specialist) has been supervising the 150 volunteer embroiderers involved in the project.  The teams of embroiderers, mainly women, gathered in homes and public spaces, throughout the county of Wexford and nearby Kilkenny every week since 1998.   

 

                                     THE HUNT IN THE FOREST OF ROS

The invitation of Dermot Mc Murough, King of Leinster precipitates the Anglo-Norman landing at Bannow and the arrival of William Marshal, Prince Regent to Henry III. William Marshal was married to Isabel de Clare, heiress of Stongbow, Earl of Pembroke and granddaughter of Dermot Mc Murrough.  Together they transformed the wilderness on the banks of the deep river Barrow and by 1250 New Ross was one of the most successful and wealthy ports in Ireland with as many as 400 ships berthed at any one time.  The Irish and Normans mingled with the 20 Italian merchants who traded in the town. 

                                  WILLIAM MARSHAL - THE FLOWER OF CHIVALRY

Entry fee to the exhibition is €6 and a hand held audio guide gave a detailed account of each tapestry.  Unfortunately, the exhibition space was small and it was difficult to view the beautiful tapestries from a distance.   This is an unusual exhibition and is worth a visit but it needs to be viewed in a much larger space for maximum effect. 

                                          THE THRIVING PORT OF NEW ROSS

 

 

JFK50 NEW ROSS, PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY - THE HOMECOMING

FRIDAY 21ST JUNE - SATURDAY 22ND JUNE

As I crossed the bridge to New Ross from Waterford on the morning of Friday 21^st June to attend a radio broadcast I was pleasantly surprised by the view.   The newly developed quayside incorporated a boardwalk and civic area and the quayside buildings looked spruce and freshly painted.  A  large banner advertising  'The Homecoming' stretched across one of the old mill buildings with a photograph of a smiling President John F. Kennedy waving at a crowd of cheering people and his quotation ‘I want to express my pleasure at being back from whence I came…’ emblazoned across it.

DOUGLAS KENNEDY ( YOUNGEST SON OF BOBBY KENNEDY) TAKES TIME TO VIEW PHOTOS BY A LOCAL MAN ON HIS ARRIVAL IN NEW ROSS ON FRIDAY AFTERNOON

The ‘Today' radio show  travelled from Dublin to broadcast from St. Michael’s Theatre, New Ross.  Myles Dungan was host for the morning as Pat Kenny was on annual leave.   The first row of the audience was filled with local people who shared their recollections and memories of the 1963 Presidential visit.  Each person recounted their experience as if it was yesterday.  I was not around for the original visit in 1963 so this was a wonderful insight into the excitement and anticipation of children and young adults 50 years ago when Ireland was a different place.  As writer Colm Toibin observed Ireland was in black and white before President John F. Kennedy arrived and afterwards everything was in Technicolour.  

              PRESIDENT JOHN F KENNEDY'S NIECE KATHLEEN KENNEDY TOWNSEND

Kathleen Kennedy Townsend gave an interesting insight to the Kennedy family ethos.   Myles alluded to the fact that she came from a privileged background and maybe this was the reason many members of the Kennedy family were involved in public service.  Kathleen agreed they were taught because of their privileged upbringing they had a duty to give back to society.   I was taken aback when Myles asked her about the ‘curse of the Kennedys’.  Kathleen wasn’t fazed and explained that as far back as she could remember death seemed to be a fact of life in the Kennedy family.  Her uncles and aunt were killed and then her father.    She explained people deal with adversity every day around the world and it is how one moves forward in a positive way is the most important thing.   A panel including historian Diarmaid Ferriter and Dr. Pat Wallace discussed the Kennedy legacy. Music was provided by Ronan Tynan who sang ‘Will ye go lassie go’ and members of the American Spiritual Ensemble sang classical renditions of American spiritual songs.

RONAN TYNAN SINGS 'WILL YE GO LASSIE GO' IN ST. MICHAEL'S THEATRE, NEW ROSS

THE AMERICAN SPIRITUAL ENSEMBLE SING IN ST. MICHAEL'S THEATRE, NEW ROSS








Kathleen Kennedy Townsend was in St. Michael’s Theatre again Friday evening for a media Q and A with six other family members who had just arrived in New Ross.  Her youngest brother Douglas joined her as did four of the youngest generation of the Kennedy clan, Cris, Max and Kiley.  Ted Junior’s wife KiKi also attended.   It was interesting to hear the younger Kennedys views on various topics presented by journalists. 

PRESIDENT KENNEDY'S GRAND-NIECE KILEY SPEAKING IN ST.MICHAEL'S THEATRE

Saturday afternoon throngs of people packed New Ross to view an American style parade weave its way from Irishtown to the Quay.  The main event of ‘The Homecoming’ commemoration took place at 6pm on the New Ross quay-front on a purpose built stage. The Kennedy family and the Taoiseach enjoyed an eclectic concert hosted by Anne Doyle and George Hook.  American Grammy award winning singer and songwriter Judy Collins, who performed for both Presidents Kennedy and Clinton at the Whitehouse, sang a couple of songs including her hit ‘Both Sides Now’.  The American Spiritual Ensemble sang some dynamic harmonies.  Extreme Rhythm, a group of unique percussionists from Wexford performed with energy and vigour.  Colm Toibin and Michael Flately made contributions and New Ross and District Pipe Band played a rousing set. 

 

         THE HOMECOMING PARADE WEAVES ITS WAY THROUGH NEW ROSS    After the concert it was time to light the Emigrant Flame. The flame was delivered to the quayside by the Irish Naval vessel LE Orla.  The flame came directly from John F.Kennedy’s graveside in Arlington, instilling inspiration and reminding us of all the emigrants who left our shores to find a better future.

CAROLINE KENNEDY AND HER SON JACK SCHLOSSBERG IN CONVERSATION WITH TAOISEACH ENDA KENNY AND JEAN KENNEDY SMITH PRIOR TO  THE  FLAME LIGHTING CEREMONY

John F. Kennedy’s grandson, Jack Schlossberg, was introduced by his mother Caroline and he delivered a brief speech before the lighting of the flame.  A trio of Caroline Kennedy, Jean Kennedy Smith and Taoiseach Enda Kenny lit the flame.  The final military element of ‘The Homecoming’ celebration was a spectacular flypast by the Air Corps.  What an amazing boost this occasion has given New Ross and Ireland in a time of hardship and recession.  Many television stations from around the world covered the event.   My next trip to New Ross will be to the Kennedy homestead in Dunganstown where a new visitor’s centre was opened by Caroline Kennedy during her visit.   

AIR CORPS FLY PAST 'THE DUNBRODY' IN NEW ROSS TO MARK THE OFFICIAL LIGHTING OF THE EMIGRANT FLAME IN NEW ROSS, CO. WEXFORD