MONDAY IN BANTRY, CO.CORK

                                                             BANTRY HOUSE

I travelled to Bantry to attend a talk at West Cork Literary Festival and arrived there in the early afternoon of Monday, 8th of July.  The talk I was to attend was to be given by actress Carol Drinkwater at 6.30pm so I had a couple of hours to kill.  When I reach a town I am not familiar with I usually drive around to find landmarks such as a Tourist Office, Festival Office, tourist attractions etc.  I found driving around the town of Bantry confusing to say the least as it is a one way system and no matter what route I took I kept arriving back to the same spot!  Driving through one of the narrow streets on one of my circular journeys I spotted a modern building on a hill with a huge flag on the side wall with the words ‘Festival Information’ emblazoned across it.  Bingo!  I drove up the steep hill past a stationary mill wheel standing like an archaic sculpture fixed to the ground.  It was a searingly hot day.  I parked in the shade under a wide tree opposite the convent at the top of the hill and walked back to the modern building to discover it was Bantry Library.  I was surprised to find a notice on the door ‘Closed on Monday’.  Confusion again as this was the building that had ‘Festival Information’ advertised on it.  A little board outside with photographs of Mondays festival participants was the only information on offer. A middle-aged American couple had wheezed their way up the hill to the library having also seen the information notice. The lady had breathing problems and the exertion had taken its toll.  They plonked on a wooden seat outside the library and asked me what they should do. We exchanged a few words and I advised them there was a Tourist Office by the Waterfront.

                        VIEW OF BANTRY BAY FROM BANTRY HOUSE  AND GARDEN

I continued my journey on foot to the Tourist Office. I had noticed the imposing building earlier.  When I arrived at the large old stone building there were a number of bronzed tourists in cycling outfits standing outside.   Bicycles laden with travelling gear leaned against the grey stone wall.  The cyclists were reading a notice of opening times on the Tourist Office door and again the familiar 'Closed on Monday'.  My heart sank.  The area around the glistening waterfront was teaming with tourists and visitors attending the literary festival.  This was a perfect opportunity to sell the local area and amenities to visitors.   

I had noticed a large sign on the gates of the magnificent Bantry House advertising hot food all day.  I was hoping to visit the house and gardens and maybe partake in some refreshments.   It was getting extremely hot as it was mid-afternoon and  I needed to retreat from the basking sun quickly as I could feel my pale skin frying.  I decided I would spend an hour or two investigating the old house and shady gardens.   I left the Tourist Office and walked along the quay by the shimmering water to the imposing gates of Bantry House.  As I drove past earlier I had been too busy reading the large sign near the roadway advertising food to notice the gates were shut.  Also I had not noticed a smaller sign on the closed gates. ‘Gardens and House closed to the public on Mondays’.  Bantry!  It is July.  Tourists visit Bantry on Mondays in July.  They need information and guidance.  I know because I have met them struggling up and down hilly, narrow streets, standing outside the Tourist Office looking intently at maps and signs that make no sense.  I felt sorry for their misfortune asking me for information.  All they got was a blank look and excuses in return. I couldn't recommend bed and breakfasts or scenic walks or decent restaurants. 

By this time my face was pink with heat and exasperation.  I turned on my heels and limped back to town.  My refuge was the cool Carvery Bar at The Bantry Bay Hotel where I gulped a long cold drink and devoured a delicious Black Pudding salad.  The Black Pudding was from award winning  McCarthy's of Kanturk  so it was bound to be good.  

My photographs of Bantry House and Gardens were taken from outside the low perimeter wall! 

 

 

All was not lost as Carol Drinkwater's presentation at the The Maritme Hotel was worth the wait.  Carol is best known for her award-winning portrayal of Helen Herriot in the television adaptation of the James Herriot books, 'All Creatures Great and Small’.   She married a French man and now lives on an olive farm in Provence.  She is currently working on a series of documentary films inspired by her books, ‘The Olive Route’ and ‘The Olive Tree’.  She discussed her travels around the Mediterranean and the highlight of her trip was her discovery of a 6,000 year old olive tree in Lebanon.  

When I was leaving Bantry I asked the lady in reception at the Maritime Hotel which road I should take to get back to Cork. The only road signs I could see were for Killarney and Skibbereen.   She advised me to take the road for Skibbereen.  'But I don't want to go to Skibbereen' I emphasised.  'Take the road to Skibbereen' she reiterated 'but don't turn off for Skibbereen keep going straight for Cork'. And I did.  I plan to visit Bantry again but next time I will visit on a Tuesday.