BLACKWATER CASTLE, CASTLETOWNROCHE, CO.CORK - GUIDED TOUR DURING HERITAGE WEEK 2103

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                      VIEW OF NORMAN CASTLE AND ADJOINING WEDDING VENUE

I live in Cork and never had the opportunity to visit the historical Blackwater Castle. When I noticed a guided tour advertised on the Heritage Week Website for activities  in Cork I jumped at the chance.   Blackwater Castle is situated near the beautiful village of Castletownroche in North Cork.   The castle is located on an elevated site above the river Awbeg.   There are magnificent views of the surrounding countryside from the battlements of the 15^th Century  Norman tower which is reputed to be one of the best preserved medieval keeps in Ireland.   The castle is the former seat of the Roche family who travelled to Ireland with Strongbow in the late 12^th century.  The Roche family subsequently became the powerful Lords of Fermoy.

DOORWAYS TO THE NORMAN CASTLE AND ROMANTIC WEDDING VENUE BELOW

 

When I arrived at the castle a crowd had gathered in the car park.  We were greeted by our hosts Patrick Nordstrom and his wife Sheila.  Patrick’s father, originally from Finland, bought the castle in the 1991 and Patrick has been running the estate with Sheila since his father’s death in 1998.  Patrick and Sheila are extremely enthusiastic about the history and archaeology of the castle, castle grounds and surrounding area of North Cork.   

               76 NARROW STEPS TO THE BATTLEMENTS OF THE NORMAN CASTLE

Our tour of the castle grounds began in a wooded area with a viewing of the remains of a 14^th century defence wall with a triangular tower and lookout post.   Patrick advised us the underlying structure of the defence wall dates back to the Bronze Age when the fort was known as Dun Cruadha and is over  2,000 years old.  I was surprised to see a monstrous 50 ft. modern climbing tower nearby.  Patrick advised us this was one of activities used by Blackwater Outdoor Activities. This company utilises the natural resources of the estate including the river, forestry, walkways, castle and its facilities'  It caters for groups of children and adults.  
  

13TH CENTURY LOOKOUT POST IN THE GROUNDS OF BLACKWATER CASTLE. VIEW FROM THE BATTLEMENTS OF THE 15TH CENTURY NORMAN CASTLE BELOW.

 

 

 

OVER 100 LIMESTONE STEPS DESCEND INTO THE VALLEY

 

Following our tour of the grounds we arrived back to the castle to view the 12^th century tower and adjoining chapel building.  To the rear of the tower over 100 steps cut into limestone descend into the valley to what is now a dried up well.  These steps originally open to the elements were covered over in the 15^th century so the integrity of the water supply could not be tampered with in a siege situation.  Patrick and Sheila have studied the history of the castle and surrounding area in-depth and Patrick enjoyed recounting quirky tales.  One tall tale was that they have their own ‘Blarney Stone’ which is apparently a medieval latrine situated in the 12th century tower.  Patrick advised us we could kiss the stone for free! We declined graciously.  

INTERIOR VIEW OF FIRST FLOOR OF THE NORMAN CASTLE BUILT CIRCA 1475

 

Our final tour was the interior of the 15^th century Norman tower.  This tower is mainly intact with the ground and two main floors, roof and spiral staircase in a remarkably well preserved condition.  The climb to the top is 76 narrow, winding steps and single file but the views of lush, green countryside is worth the effort.

                              VIEW FROM DOORWAY OF THE NORMAN TOWER

This was an appropriate activity for Heritage Week.  Patrick and Sheila were knowledgeable, genial hosts and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  

ANCIENT SHEELA NA GIG IN THE NORMAN TOWER

VIEW FROM THE CASTLE 

 

'COSTUME' - EXHIBITION AT THE NATIONAL CRAFT GALLERY, KILKENNY

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                                                      CREATION BY UNA BURKE

‘Costume’ was a magical exhibition I visited at Kilkenny Arts Festival.  This exhibition is at the National Craft Gallery, Castle Yard opposite Kilkenny Castle  and continues until October 16^th 2013.   The visitor arrives at an archway in Castle Yard and through a door to the left is ‘Behind the Scenes’ an exhibition of undergarments created by The Abbey Theatre costume workshop and through a door to the right is ‘Future Fashion’.   Both exhibitions explore fashion, craft and the theatrical, both on stage and on the catwalk. 

 

The Abbey Theatre is Ireland’s National Theatre, and home to the only full time costume workshop in the country.  ‘Behind the Scenes’ shines a light on the undergarment, a hidden but critical part of any costume.  The Abbey Theatre recreated a range of undergarments for this exhibition alongside original items from past productions, where the inner becomes the outer in a celebration of the sculptural qualities and superb craft skills employed in making panniers, hoops, crinolines, bustles and other surprising forms. The exhibition takes you on a journey from initial concept through to finished piece, looking at sketches, designs, fabrics, traditional construction methods and some unexpected techniques used in making costume for theatre including a birdseed bra!

'BIRD SEED BRA' WORN IN
'THE PLOUGH AND THE STARS'  BY
GABRIELLE REIDY AS BESSIE BURGESS

BESPOKE CORSET, CHEMISE, BUM PAD, BLOOMERS AND PETTICOAT WORN BY DERBHLE CROTTY AS GRETTA CONROY IN 'THE DEAD' BY JAMES JOYCE

                                                      ‘Future Fashion’ focuses on six innovators of fashion and sculpture for the body.  It explores the work of fashion, jewellery and shoe designers who are embracing – and transforming – craft skills and techniques through innovative design thinking.

                                                      CREATION BY UNA BURKE

One designer I really like is Una Burke.  Her leather breastplates have a medieval influence.   She is a leather artist and designer using vegetable-tanned leathers and traditional leatherworking techniques to produce her distinct construction of leather panelling and brass fittings. 

CREATIONS BY UNA BURKE 

 

FINSK was launched in 2004 by Julia Lundsten.  Julia creates handmade shoes in an atelier in Brazil using luxurious natural materials.  Maintaining an ethical production process is essential and all the leathers used are by-products of other industries.

 Andrea Chaves and Marlies Ten Bhomer also exhibited shoe creations and Ana Rajcevic creates wearable sculptures using silicone rubber, fiberglass and gel coat.  

 

SHOES BY JULIA LUNDSTEN OF FINSK

Stephanie Bila’s collection is an exploration of the ability of jewellery to enhance our perception of the human form.  The materials used are beech, bendywood and Swarovski crystals.  The inspiration carries on through to smaller sale ready-to-wear jewellery pieces. 
 

                                                                               
Costume continues at the National Craft Gallery in Kilkenny until October 16^th 2013. 

 

 

 

MIRACOCO LUMINARIUM BY ARCHITECTS OF AIR AT KILKENNY ARTS FESTIVAL

               RELAXING IN PODS IN MIRACOCO AT KILKENNY ARTS FESTIVAL

As I left the stunning Costume exhibition at the National Craft Gallery, Castle Yard during Kilkenny Arts Festival I noticed a kiosk selling tickets at the gates of Kilkenny Castle.  The event was advertised as ‘Architects of Air presents Miracoco’.   I immediately thought of a hot air balloon.  I crossed the street to investigate.  A lady with two small children was already enquiring about entrance fees.  She was informed it would be €5 each, €15 for three of them.  No concession for small children.  She asked if the event was worth the money. Would the children enjoy the experience?  I asked what the experience was about.  The ticket girl advised us there had been extremely positive reviews.  She tried to explain the installation but when she was confronted with blank expressions she told us we would have to experience the venue for ourselves but assured us we would enjoy it immensely.  Not convinced we tentatively bought our tickets and headed for Kilkenny Castle Park.

 TUNNELS CONNECTING DOMES

 

An inflatable structure like an enormous medieval bouncy castle had been installed in the centre of Castle Park.   Not a hot air balloon in sight.  I was tempted to run back to the kiosk and ask for a refund but I steadied myself and forged ahead.   On arrival at the entrance to the ‘luminarium’ we were asked to remove our shoes.   One of the assistants lifted a flap at the entrance to the inflated structure and a world of coloured light and calming sound enveloped us as we stepped inside. 

 

VISITORS RELAX IN ONE OF THE DOMES AND BELOW CEILING OF ONE OF THE DOMES

Miracoco luminarium was built by Architects of Air  in 2011. It is a monumental installation.  We travelled through a labyrinth of tunnels and cavernous domes.  Visitors move in a medium of saturated and subtle hues. Redolent of the Lotus Temple of India it features spiral lattices to create a display of scintillating points of light on a field of iridescent hues.  There are no actors, no musicians, in fact no performers at all.  The show is the venue itself.  The domes are at least 10 metres high and provide focal points.  Tunnels connect the domes and determine the journey the visitor will take.  The luminarium also features ‘pods’ or alcoves where visitors sit or lie and relax.

 

PODS FOR RELAXATION

The vast luminarium is made of thin, grey plastic less than 1mm thick with translucent seams to create a unique sensory experience.  Daylight filters through the coloured parts and reflects on the grey inside.  The ambient soundtrack isn’t intrusive and even when the weather is cloudy an amazing radiance comes through, which means Miracoco can be used in any weather.

             EXTERIOR OF MIRACOCO IS LIKE A MEDIEVAL BOUNCY CASTLE

Visitors can find a quiet a pod to relax, practise yoga, meditate or even sleep.   After about ten minutes exploring tunnels and domes everybody is horizontal.  It is the most relaxing space I have ever had the pleasure to enter.  I spent half an hour relaxing in one of the pods.  There is no time limit.  I returned to the outside world refreshed and felt completely rested as if I had slept soundly for hours.  A lady I spoke to said she was extremely stressed at the moment and she was going to return to the luminarium to unwind every day during the festival.   I wonder if she did.

 
                                                            LABYRINTH OF TUNNELS

 

 

 

 

SEARCHING FOR HANNAH ARENDT - BOB AND ROBERTA SMITH AT KILKENNY ARTS FESTIVAL 2013

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            BOB AND ROBERTA SMITH EXHIBITION UNTIL SUNDAY 6TH OCTOBER

                                  AT BUTLER GALLERY, KILKENNY CASTLE

I havn't been at my desk for a couple of weeks as I have been attending Kilkenny Arts Festival (Aug 9-18).   This festival is in its fortieth year and the variety and quality of material on offer never disappoints.  I hope to give you a small flavour of the festival in my next few posts and maybe my musings might entice you to visit this beautiful city and county for Kilkenny Arts Festival 2014. 

My first post will feature the headline visual artist at this years Kilkenny Arts Festival.  I found this a challenging exhibition.   Bob and Roberta Smith – one artist despite the dual identity – is London based artist Patrick Brill.  Confused?  I was.  I visited the main exhibition at the Butler Gallery in the basement of Kilkenny Castle.  Bob and Roberta Smith is an artist, an educator, a musician and an activist.  His signature works are on display in the Butler Gallery and are all about empowering or enabling the spectator.  His work is bright, brash and often very large sign paintings, featuring his own or quoted snatches of various texts.  He poses questions about art and society.

 

I was informed at the Butler Gallery that Smith was also making use of some of Kilkenny City's historic public spaces.  I was advised to visit the bishop’s robing room at the former bishop’s palace to ‘BE Hannah Arendt’.  “To BE whom?” I enquired.  “You can dress up like Hannah Arendt and make a speech,” the lady in the gallery informed me.  “The bishop’s robing room is never open to the public so this is your only chance to see it”.  Later I learned Hannah Arendt (1906 -75) was a German feminist, philosopher and Smith is drawn to her political theories.   Armed with a name and place I set off through the bustling medieval streets of Kilkenny in search of Hannah Arendt.

Walking from Kilkenny Castle to the former bishop’s palace takes twenty minutes so I broke my journey with a visit to seventeenth century Rothe House on Parliament Street (see previous post) to visit Smith’s ‘Centre for Argument’.   Rothe House was the meeting place for supporters of the Confederation of Kilkenny.  Drawing on this rebellious heritage, Smith re imagines Rothe House as a space for meeting and discussion, provoking and encouraging visitors to get on his Soap Box and start a debate.  This was an entertaining exercise as there were plenty of people willing to give their views on various topics pertaining to the arts.    

 

I left Rothe House and continued my quest.  I walked through Irish Town and climbed St. Canices’s steps to St. Canice's cathedral.  "Where can I find Hannah Arendt and the bishop's robing room?" I enquired at the tourist information desk in the cathedral.  I was directed to a large building to the rear of the cathedral.  The former bishop’s palace is now home to The Heritage Council.   In the foyer of the building was a sign for “The Bob and Roberta Smith Art School”.   I went to investigate.  I discovered people of all ages in the community rooms busy at easels and drawing boards.   There was a buzz of activity as children worked alongside parents and grandparents to create family masterpieces.  There were instructions if you needed help to get started and pictures to inspire you or you could just dive in and do your own thing.  The artworks created were then displayed on site.  I was beginning to understand the  message behind Smith’s work.  A film on Smith was also shown entitled ‘Make Your Own Damn Art’.  
 

This was all very well but I still had to find Hannah Arendt.  "Where can I find Hannah Arendt?" I asked the girls at the desk in the foyer.  They sent me to a large garden to the rear of the house.  At the end of a gravel path was a ancient, one-roomed stone building surrounded by trees.  I couldn't imagine the bishop coming out to this little house to change his robes when the house he lived in was enormous.    I peeped into the building to find it had been converted into a small atelier.   I encountered a cheerful young woman at the door.  “Is there an exhibition here?” I enquired.  “Yes,” she answered. “Come in.”  I entered a small dank, musty room. I was the only person.  I felt a little awkward.  What was I supposed to do?  One side of the room resembled a little theatrical set with books and furniture.   The woman pointed to a rail of dowdy old clothes and informed me that I could dress up and make a speech about anything I felt needed to be said and BE Hannah Arendt.   I looked at the clothes in disbelief.   “Are these Hannah’s clothes?” I asked. “No,” she replied.  “They are from the Abbey Theatre costume department but they relate to the same era Hannah was alive.”     At the other side of the room a low guttural voice was emanating from a black and white television.  At last I had found Hannah Arendt.  Curious to see what she was about I hastily retreated from the clothing rack to one of the chairs in front of the television.    Hannah was an intellectual powerhouse and theorised forcefully in German.  Thankfully the interview was subtitled in English. She fixed the interviewer with black penetrating eyes.  She chain smoked and spoke emphatically. Her demeanour and the dampness of the old stone building made me shiver.  I listened to her for ten minutes and decided to return to the warm August sunshine. I left Hannah Arendt as I had found her, theorising in the bishop’s robing room at the former bishop's palace at Kilkenny Arts Festival.   

MIDDLE EASTERN COOKING IN EAST CORK

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                     RORY O'CONNELL PREPARES A MIDDLE EASTERN FEAST  

Interested in Middle Eastern food?  The name to be familiar with is
Ottolenghi or so I was informed on a recent visit to  Ballymaloe Cookery School to attend a Middle Eastern cookery course.   Yotum Ottolenghi is an Israeli-born cookery writer and chef-patron based in London.  Ottolenghi’s style is rooted in, but not confined to his Middle Eastern upbringing.  His particular skill is in marrying the food of his native Israel with a wider range of incredible textures and flavours from Syria, Turkey, Lebanon, Iran and Armenia - but with a western twist.  Born in Jerusalem he moved to London in 1997 to train at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school for six months. He worked in London as a pastry chef for a few years before setting up his first gourmet deli in 2002 aiming to sell the best take away food in London both sweet and savoury.  Three more delis followed and one formal restaurant Nopi opened in 2011. 

 

TWO PLATTERS OF OTTOLENGHI'S ROAST CHICKEN
WITH SAFFRON, HAZELNUTS AND
HONEY  GARNISHED WITH CHOPPED
SPRING ONION

 

My first introduction to an Ottolenghi recipe was by Rory O'Connell on the first day of the course.  Darina Allen and her daughter-in-law Rachel Allen are the public faces of Ballymaloe Cookery School but Darina’s brother Rory is the hidden gem.  He has just published an excellent cookery book 'Master It' and is an inspiring teacher and chef.  Precise and informative he imparts knowledge to students with passion and enthusiasm.  He taught us how to fillet a whole chicken and then demonstrated how to cook Ottolenghi’s roast chicken with saffron, hazelnuts and honey.   I was transported from East Cork to the Middle East as the spices sizzled and exotic aromas filled the air.  Rory prepared dishes from around the Mediterranean, from Moroccan Harira Soup to Hummus Bi Tahina, from radish and broad bean salad with green tahini sauce to roast peppers with chickpeas and fresh goat’s cheese. 

                                                                  BAKLAVA

APRICOTS, ALMONDS AND PISTACHIOS

 

Desserts in the Middle East are extremely sweet.  Rory prepared a Baklava which is a rich sweet pastry made with layers of filo pastry filled with chopped nuts, sweetened with syrup or honey.  It is characteristic of the cuisines of the former Ottomon Empire but is also found in Asia.

Darina Allen and Rachel Allen provided subsequent demonstrations.  Darina prepared a Syrian dessert of apricots, almonds and pistachios in sweet syrup.  It was intensely sweet and Darina advised to serve it with a rich chocolate cake.  A Tunisian orange cake was popular with the students and many of them recreated their own versions in the kitchen during practical work. I cooked mostly savoury dishes including Ottolenghi's roast chicken, lamb Shawarma and Moroccan Harira soup.

              MOROCCAN HARIRA SOUP WITH LAMB, LENTILS AND CHICKPEAS  

 

                                        FRAGRANT SALADS

The exotic dishes included fragrant salads decorated with fresh flowers, dressed with pomegranate and molasses dressing.  Darina produced a cool refreshing mint lemonade and a Lebanese cold cucumber soup. I learned names of many new dishes and ingredients including sumac which consists of crushed red berries from the sumac plant and za'atar which is prepared using ground thyme, oregano, marjoram mixed with toasted sesame seed and salt.

 

KITCHEN GARDEN AND ORCHARD

It was delightful to get outside to the cool kitchen garden and orchard for a break after a morning of frenetic activity in the kitchen.  All the produce grown there is organic and is used by the cookery school.  I visited the small dairy where the cookery school's five Jersey cows are milked each day.   They provide the milk and cheese for the school.  Huge hen houses contained a myriad of hens and chickens producing hundreds of eggs.  The fish for the school is caught in nearby Ballycotton and is fresh and delicious.  All ingredients used by students at the school are totally organic.  

                         CLAUDIA RODEN'S KATAIFI PIE WITH CREAM FILLING

Fun was had on the second day of the course when Darina and Rachel recreated Claudia Roden’s (see previous Ballymaloe Litfest post) tasty dessert recipe Kataifi Pie with a cream filling. Kataifi pastry, an ingredient in this recipe, is spun pastry and needs to be teased and each strand coated in butter.   Darina and Rachel started the teasing process and when Darina tired Sorcha, one of the excellent teaching assistants took over.  It took three of them to get the pastry to the required texture before cooking.  Needless to say I did not try to recreate this dessert in the kitchen.  Two brave men attempted it and succeeded admirably.  It is a delicious dessert but I think I will stick to baking something simpler.  Ballymaloe Cookery School provides courses to suit everybody. From beginners to advanced there is a course to suit all pockets and timetables.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time there and would highly recommend it.  

 

DARINA, RACHEL AND SORCHA TEASING THE KATAIFI PASTRY 

 

 

LABNEH (STRAINED YOGHURT CHEESE) WITH ANCHOVIES

 

EDIBLE FLOWERS FOR SALADS (ABOVE) AND PET DOVES (BELOW)

 

 

ARTICHOKES